Here's what the Iverson Movie Ranch obsession is all about ...

For an introduction to this blog and to the obsession a growing number of vintage film and TV fans have with the Iverson Movie Ranch — the most widely filmed location site in movie and TV history — please read our introductory post, found here. Otherwise, please read on ... and forgive our sporadic posts.
• To go right to the great Iverson cinematographers,click here.
• Here's a link to Garden of the Gods, the best-known section of the Iverson Movie Ranch (featured in the movie "Stagecoach," the "Lone Ranger" TV show and hundreds of other productions).
• To find other rock features or look up movie titles, TV shows, actors and production people, see the "labels" section on the right side of the page, below.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Welcome to the obsession:
The Iverson Movie Ranch

I discovered it in summer 2008 and have been hooked on it ever since — the rugged landscape in Chatsworth, Calif., that marks the site of the former Iverson Movie Ranch. Known as the most widely filmed outdoor location in the world, this remote corner of the San Fernando Valley on the outskirts of Los Angeles was an important hub of the movie business from the 1930s through the 1950s, with its striking sandstone rock formations among its biggest draws.



An ideal setting for Westerns, the 500-acre Iverson Movie Ranch also found its calling in science-fiction movies, war epics and tales of distant lands such as Africa and Arabia. It is the site where Republic Pictures made virtually all of its serials and B-Westerns, and where countless outdoor action sequences were filmed by crews from Columbia, Universal, Paramount, Fox, RKO, Monogram and just about every major production company of Hollywood's Golden Age. An estimated 2,000 films, dating back to the silent era, along with thousands of television episodes were shot at Iverson.


While B-movies and early TV shows provided much of Iverson's business, the sprawling ranch also took a bow in major features such as John Ford's epic Western "Stagecoach" (1939) and his classic Depression saga "The Grapes of Wrath" (1940). Gary Cooper was a frequent visitor to Iverson and built a Western village on the site for his only feature as a producer, the 1945 Western "Along Came Jones," co-starring Loretta Young. Cooper's "The Lives of a Bengal Lancer" (1935) was among the major war movies shot at Iverson, along with John Wayne's "The Fighting Seabees" (1944) and Errol Flynn's "The Charge of the Light Brigade" (1936).


All the cowboy movie heroes worked at Iverson — Roy Rogers, Gene Autry, Audie Murphy, Randolph Scott, Tom Mix, William S. Hart and the rest. So did major movie stars from Barbara Stanwyck to James Cagney to Judy Garland to Henry Fonda to Shirley Temple. Bob Hope, Buster Keaton, Laurel and Hardy and the Three Stooges were among the comedy stars to film at Iverson. Pioneering stuntman Yakima Canutt perfected his trademark stagecoach stunts on the Upper Iverson's well-traveled chase roads, while superheroes from Superman to Batman donned their capes at the ranch. Early TV Westerns such as "The Lone Ranger" and "The Cisco Kid" shot regularly at Iverson, paving the way for the next generation of bigger, better TV productions to bring their cameras to the ranch for classic series such as "Bonanza," "Gunsmoke," "The Virginian" and "The Big Valley."


Iverson's charismatic rock "characters" — Lone Ranger Rock, Batman Rock, Indian Head and Eagle Beak, Nyoka Cliff and hundreds of others — coexist today with the condominiums, trailers, mansions and apartments that took over the land as the heyday of Westerns, serials and B-movies faded into history. While a number of Iverson's distinctive and widely filmed movie rocks have been blown up to pave the way for progress, most have survived — even if in many cases they now lie forgotten in back yards, hidden behind locked gates or buried under a half-century of natural overgrowth. Meanwhile, some Iverson landmarks remain at risk of being bulldozed for future development, opening the door for debate as to whether these silent stars are cultural icons that deserve to be protected.


On the screen or in person, Iverson's unique giant boulders have so much personality that they seem to be living creatures. The charismatic stone figures that populate this intriguing corner of the world have become almost like family to me. I'm learning more about Iverson all the time, but it is a rich and complicated place, and one reason I love it is I know it holds mysteries I will never solve.

23 comments:

  1. I have never been to Iverson, but I have been to Sedona, which was also the scene of many Westerns from that same era. I'll be following the blog with interest!

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  2. Good to hear from you, Man from Moqui. I've never been to Sedona, but it does show up a lot in the old Westerns. Looks like a great place. I'll try to make it there soon. I know other parts of Arizona are amazing.
    -Electric Dylan Lad

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  3. We were married at Iverson Movie Ranch in July 1996. It's a legendary place and I love that you're documenting its history.

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  4. That's really cool, Lori Jean. I'd love to hear more — how did you decide on Iverson, and where at the ranch did the ceremony take place? I know the place already looks quite a bit different from how it looked in 1996. Wedding photos?

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  5. Bob from New HampshireAugust 11, 2011 at 6:50 AM

    I stomped around Iverson's in 1999, searching for theSphinx-like rock that I had grown up with. (Eagle Beak). Found it...like seeing an old friend. Now I'm stomping around your 1952 aerial photo and comparing it to the current Google map. I always thought that the church at the south end of town might be a false front. Never seen a side view, just straight on.Thanks for being there. Glad to see there are other people who have rocks for friends.

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  6. Hi Bob ...

    Thanks for your comments. Sorry it took me so long to reply. The church was a real building, that's for sure. If you haven't seen it, the Hopalong Cassidy movie "The Marauders," aka "King of the Range" (mentioned elsewhere in the blog in an entry on the church), is a spectacular showcase for the church — probably the best I've seen. The movie features closeups of the front and at least one side of the building, and it's one of only a few productions where it's possible the interiors were also shot at the site. The church was only around for a couple of years (1947-1949), making it a mysterious presence that has been a source of confusion for plenty of Iverson enthusiasts.

    I'm jealous of your 1999 Iverson visit — that was almost 10 years before I discovered it. I think Tinsley Yarbrough was there in 1998 and got some of the last photos of certain buildings. Hangover Shack was still partially standing at that time and I think I've seen shots of a pile of rubble that was probably the Grove Relay Station. Do you recall seeing any signs of construction?

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  7. I often drove on the 118 freeway as a child and my mother/aunts/friends parents would say this is where the westerns were filmed. I thought it a shame that they built the condos and the apartments around those beautiful rocks, no offense meant to anyone. I live out of state now and wish I had taken the time to wander around a bit. What a wonderful blog you have. Thanks for all your efforts. It's all an important part of history. My husband and I have thoroughly enjoyed browsing.

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    1. I had a similar experience as a kid, only it was before the 118 was built and we were probably on Santa Susana Pass Road -- like when we went out to Corriganville. My mom said the same thing as we went through Chatsworth: They shot a lot of the old Westerns in these rocks. Little did I realize that decades later I would become obsessed with those rocks.

      I've spent plenty of time lamenting those darn condos and the loss of historic movie rocks. But I try to find something positive about it, and I realize that it adds to the intrigue about Iverson that some of the old features are gone while others survived. Sometimes it's a lot of fun to try to find something, not knowing whether it still exists.

      Given my druthers, I wish all of it could be saved. Unfortunately, some features remain at risk today. I think the movie rocks should be treated as historic monuments, like a building that is declared untouchable. Fortunately, a fair number of them have in fact been preserved in a park. But plenty of good ones have been lost, and others may still be destroyed if the remaining undeveloped portion of Iverson is ever developed.

      If you ever make your way back to L.A., the old Iverson is still "wanderable" to some extent, so you can make a point of stopping by to see what you missed last time around.

      Thanks for commenting ...

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  8. I am saddened at the loss of so many landmarks of time. This one too, has been taken over by "progress". Fascinating to have a glimpse of what it once was. When you get a chance to visit the sites of those movies that were on the big screen when you were a child it kinda brings that goosebump feeling in pleasant spiritual way. Thanks for the the work on preserving the memory in such a splendid way.

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  9. By the way, my sister's ex-husband worked for Mr. Iverson as a clean up boy. Mr. Iverson asked him, "Hey,Richard how would you like to be a mechanic?" and helped Richard go to school. Richard became a successful mechanic.

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  11. Great Blog,I discovered Iverson the same year late 2008 while off work for 6 weeks from a sickness, lots of down time watching the western channel and online.Discovered I lived 20 minutes away from Corriganville and Iverson.Went to visit them both, been hooked ever since.Thanks to the DVR,my routine is to scan this western channel through a whole week and record all B-Westerns and anything else filmed before 1966.Its great,you can stop the movie and forward frame by frame,great way to study the terrain.Most recently scored on what looks like an A-Western,color movie filmed almost entierly at Corriganville and Iverson,the movie was Wild Stallion.Great color shots of Fort Apache and my first glimps of Iversons Rock Island.

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    1. LW:

      I'd be doing the same thing if I had a DVR. I'm still in the previous century in that regard. The other problem is I don't get Encore Westerns anymore. TCM still comes through occasionally, but mostly I'm buying DVDs and searching online. Wild Stallion has been a hard one to find.

      I still have at least 500 old movies I'm looking for. It's an ongoing process -- something to do with "all my free time" (not!).

      Thanks for your feedback, and happy hunting!

      -edl

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  12. I can't thank you enough this is downright fantastic!

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    1. You're welcome, Reb. Thanks for your comment.

      -edl

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  13. Great blog. Id like to share a little about my Western obsession. Born in Chicago in 1963 and seeing John Wayne movies and reruns on Lone Ranger and Cisco Kid on Sundays, I've always liked Westerns, and have been drawn to the West, living in San Diego and Seattle in the late 80's, and in the burbs East of Phoenix AZ since '97. I visited Monument Valley in '98. I've been down to Old Tucson studios some 3 times, and have been to Rawhide Western town in North Scottsdale, as well as it's new location down in Chandler. I never made it over to Apacheland in Apache Junction, but it's gone now unfortunately. I've been up to Sedona a couple of times. Johnny Guitar was filmed there. People comment that many movies were shot up there. Several certainly, but I'm not so sure there were really that many. If so, I haven't seen them. People confuse Sedona with Monument Valley. There are similarities, but I think you can tell by the trees. Sedona has a lot more trees. I watch the Westerns Channel a lot and eventually started googling for info on locations other than Old Tucson. Vasquez Rocks is one I kept seeing and finally identified and learned about. Melody Ranch, in Newall CA, is one I've heard of and would like to visit. I even have a 1942 Harmony Supertone Gene Autry Melody Ranch cowboy guitar now, something I didn't even know existed till recently. Corriganville, Spahn and Kanab UT are ones I've read about. So I just got J. Schneider's book; 'Western Movie Making Locations' and am learning about Iverson Movie Ranch. I feel kind of dumb not knowing this was the main place until now, but yeah, it's cool and I envy the people living around Chatsworth who can just cruise over there. The quality of Mr. Schneider's book is disappointing. Thin paper &blurry black & white pictures. But that's OK, it's full of good info, and I can prolly pick up others which are better illustrated. Anyway, thanks for the great blog. It's helping fill in some areas not covered by Mr. Schneider's volume.

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    1. Thanks for your comment, Bob. I'm fortunate to live in L.A., where I have access to plenty of the old movie sites. But even so I've visited only a handful of the classic Western locations. Chatsworth and Newhall both have more than their share -- I've become most familiar with Chatsworth (and Simi Valley -- Corriganville), and I haven't had much luck finding anything in Newhall. Other good ones in California include Red Rock Canyon, Bronson Canyon and Lone Pine.

      I made the decision some time ago to focus my research on Iverson because it is such a big job all by itself that it needs someone to focus exclusively on it to try to do it justice -- and because I just became hooked on the place and all its mysteries. I do get interested in the others as well, as they always come up when I'm looking for Iverson in the movies. Lately I've been trying to figure out what I can about Jauregui Ranch, Walker Ranch, the old Monogram Ranch and a few others. The only clues we have left, in most cases, are whatever we can find in the movies.

      I'm planning my first visit to Pioneertown in the near future -- one of the few movie Western towns still standing.

      If you're interested in visiting Melody Ranch, which has been rebuilt since the vintage filming era but supposedly was designed to look just like the old town, it's open to the public once a year, in April, for the Cowboy Music and Poetry Festival. I'm hoping to make my first visit there in April 2013 -- the main goal being to see Champion's Barn. It's one of the few original buildings still in place, the barn where Gene Autry's horse spent his last many years ... and I've only recently figured out how to spot it in the movies -- it's in a lot of old Westerns.

      Corriganville is worth a visit too, but it only has the foundations left from the Western town -- Silvertown. It also has "interpretive signs" at a few key spots, as it has been turned into a park -- one of the conditions the developers had to meet when they converted much of the land into condos. Some familiar rocks can be seen too, if you're deep enough into it that you might recognize rocks.

      Check out the Rock Face entry (in the index at the right) ... or this link:

      http://iversonmovieranch.blogspot.com/2012/03/confusion-between-two-different-filming.html

      to see a post about how the Santa Clarita Valley Historical Society got messed up between Vasquez Rocks and Corriganville.

      Jerry Schneider has done some terrific location research. I often use his material as a starting point. Of course, there's always more that needs to be done.

      Thanks again for your input, and happy hunting. Maybe we'll meet up out on the trail. Look me up if you come to L.A.

      -edl

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  14. I've always loved the old westerns, but had no idea about the filming locations until I stumbled upon the web sites telling about them. I read all the web sites, and had a burning to see them. I knew I was going to LA this past summer, and was hoping I'd at least get time to see the "Lone Ranger Rock". One day, I visited Apple Valley and Victorville, and had some time left, so I swung by Chatsworth, and found the LR rock. I was so excited. I spent a long time there. I almost exploded thinking about all the stars that spent time on the very ground I was standing on. I could look around the Garden of the Gods, at all the trails, and just stand in amazement at all that had happened there. I couldn't get over it. I knew then, I'd have to go back. I live in GA, so getting back is going to be tricky, but I have to do it. I'm hooked on Iverson's. I just finished reading Robert Sherman's "Quiet on the Set", and thoroughly enjoyed it. Seeing the things I saw on my trip, meant so much to me. Seeing the places my childhood heros spent time was quite an experience for me. Sky King was one of my favorites, and while in Apple Valley, with the help from google earth, I found the old Apple Valley Airport ramp and runways. But climbing around the rocks at Iversons was the highlight of my trip. I had so much fun, all I needed was a cap gun and someone to shoot at. I think it's a shame that all the history of that place is lost to the folks who live there. There's people in the condos that don't have a clue of what happened there. Please, someone spark interest in preserving what's left. You're right, the rocks have personalities. Beinging around them is almost erie. Like being in a grave yard, with everything silent around them. The stories they could tell! Next time I want to be better prepared, and have a plan. But I will go back, Lord willing. I tried putting my name here, but I can't figure out the comment as block. My name is Tommy from GA

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    1. Tommy:

      This is a great post! Thank you so much. I liked Sky King a lot too, and now that my interests have evolved, I like it as a source of insights into Iverson.

      If you make it back out, get in touch with me. I'd enjoy showing you around Iverson.

      iversonfilmranch
      (at)
      aol
      (dot)
      com

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    2. Thanks for the invite. You bet I'll get in touch when I come back out. I'm hoping for this summer, but we'll see. Love this site!

      Tommy from GA

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  15. By the way, while I was wandering around, I was curious about snakes. I figured I'd see some, but never did. Was I lucky, or are they not around? Tommy

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    1. Tommy ...

      I've enjoyed your comments ... thanks. The place definitely has snakes. I've only seen one, don't know what kind ... but it was what I would consider big and it popped up kinda suddenly, as they do. I hear the site does have rattlers, so I would advise being prepared for that.

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