"The Magnificent Seven" (2016 remake): Plaza Blanca Cliffs, N.M.
The Westerns of today may not be up there with the classics of the '30s, '40s and '50s, but one thing I still enjoy about them — even more today than in many of the classics — is the terrific photography of the American West.
"A Million Ways to Die in the West" (2014): Monument Valley's John Ford Point
With widescreen formats, advances in color reproduction and new tech such as drone photography, big-screen TVs and 4K Ultra HD, the modern Western brings the West's wide-open spaces right into our living rooms.
"Stagecoach" (1939): The stage arrives on the Iverson Movie Ranch in Chatsworth, Calif.
Once upon a time in Hollywood, most Westerns were filmed in California — with Chatsworth, Newhall, Lone Pine, Simi Valley, the Mojave Desert, Santa Monica Mountains and Conejo Valley high on the list of favorite spots.
"Django Unchained" (2012): The Alabama Hills in Lone Pine, Calif.
Filming continues in each of those locales in the 21st century, but it has been scaled way back since the glory days of the Western, when the movies were shot primarily in the Golden State.
Western movie town at CL Ranch, part of a booming film industry in Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Today's Westerns are filmed just about everywhere in the world — Spain, Romania and the former Yugoslavia have been popular shooting locations, along with Canada, Mexico and other countries.
Ghost Ranch, N.M.: One of the most popular filming locations for modern Westerns
But the Western U.S. is still the "real West," and the region today remains Hollywood's busiest backlot when it comes to Western movies.
In the early years of the "eastward expansion," as Hollywood searched beyond California for new places to film Westerns, nearby southern Arizona — rugged and conveniently located — was the preferred landing spot.
The same hills seen in the background of the 1957 version of "3:10 to Yuma" can be found today just off the Interstate between Benson and Dragoon.
Arizona continues to hold a slice of the contemporary Western movie location business, and it's hardly alone: Utah, Colorado, Montana, Nevada and Texas are all among the key players, along with other Western states.
But in the 21st century, New Mexico has emerged as the clear front-runner for Western film shoots. Today if they're going to remake a classic like "3:10 to Yuma," as they did in 2007, they're probably going to film it in northern New Mexico — and they did. Below I'll explain exactly where this location can be found today.
"Cowboys & Aliens" (2011): Diablo Canyon, N.M.
New Mexico's success in cultivating a booming movie industry was built not only on the region's natural beauty, but also on a proactive state film commission and a history of well-timed tax incentives.
New Mexico's busiest filming region — and not coincidentally, an area where much of the state's most beautiful scenery can be found — is centered around the capital city of Santa Fe in the northern part of the state.
It doesn't hurt matters that an especially picturesque stretch of the Rio Grande runs through the region as it works its way south. The river has made appearances in many productions over the years.
They've been making Westerns in the Santa Fe area since the 1910s, but the region's modern movie business can be traced back to two Columbia Westerns in the 1950s: "The Man From Laramie" and "Cowboy."
Both
movies filmed on what was then the Jarrett Ranch, just outside of Santa
Fe. The producers of "The Man From Laramie" may have inadvertently opened the floodgates to New Mexico's filming boom when they gave the state a prominent shout-out in the
movie's opening credits.
They
also personally thanked the Jarrett family, who were just getting their movie ranch operation off the ground. The movie crew left the Jarretts with an
inscribed wooden plaque autographed by the cast of "The Man From Laramie" — a nice gesture
even if they did spell the Jarretts' name wrong.
Not long after Jimmy Stewart and "The Man From Laramie" rolled out from the Jarrett Ranch, another Columbia Western, Glenn Ford's "Cowboy," rolled in. The movie filmed on and around the ranch in 1957.
The old Jarrett Ranch is known today as Bonanza Creek Ranch, and besides
being a working cattle ranch, it's still in the movie location
business — one of several major movie ranches located near Santa Fe.
The peak is situated
just southwest of the Bonanza Creek Ranch, and turns up all the time in movies shot there.
Here it is, covered in snow, in the landmark Western "Silverado." The movie, which is credited with helping to spark a revival of the Western genre, filmed in northern New Mexico during the winter of 1984-85.
Scott
Shepherd led the cast of "Hostiles," which shot at Bonanza Creek in
2016 and again captured Cerro Bonanza in the background. That's it in its usual position, on the right.
Zeroing in on the Galisteo area, we find at least four movie ranches
currently operating in the neighborhood, spanning a swath from Bonanza Creek
Ranch in the northwest to San Cristobal Ranch in the southeast.
It's
common for productions filming in the region to shoot at more
than one of the area's location ranches. "Silverado's" visit in 1984-85
included work on the Eaves, Cerro Pelon and Bonanza Creek movie
ranches.
In
addition to building the town of Silverado on the Cerro Pelon Ranch,
the production team for "Silverado" built an impressive ranch set for the movie
on the Bonanza Creek Ranch.
With
a few new buildings, new fences and a fresh coat of paint, the ranch would reappear four years later in "Lonesome Dove," where it was featured
prominently as the home of Anjelica Huston's character, Clara.
It's a coin flip between "Lonesome Dove" and "Silverado" for which one did more to revive the Western genre, but it was a sign of things to come that both productions filmed in northern New Mexico.
"Lonesome Dove" introduced one of Robert Duvall's most enduring characters in retired Texas Ranger Augustus McCrae. His great hat became a fixture of the cowboy hat business, and is still sold today as "The Gus."
Clara's house also provided the backdrop for some behind-the-scenes photo ops before the "Lonesome Dove" team pulled out of the Bonanza Creek Ranch and northern New Mexico in the summer of 1988.
Built as part of the "Silverado" ranch set, the barn that later became a part of Clara's spread proved to be the most durable part of the set. Here it is in its first incarnation, in "Silverado."
Replace the cattle with horses, put up a new corral fence, sprinkle in a few chickens and add a couple of cheerful youngsters to the landscape, and the barn was ready for prime time in "Lonesome Dove."
In the years following "Lonesome Dove," a large Western town grew up around the barn, which remains a part of the Bonanza Creek Ranch filming operation today. These days the old barn is typically set up as a mercantile.
It's a coin flip between "Lonesome Dove" and "Silverado" for which one did more to revive the Western genre, but it was a sign of things to come that both productions filmed in northern New Mexico.
"Lonesome Dove" introduced one of Robert Duvall's most enduring characters in retired Texas Ranger Augustus McCrae. His great hat became a fixture of the cowboy hat business, and is still sold today as "The Gus."
Clara's house also provided the backdrop for some behind-the-scenes photo ops before the "Lonesome Dove" team pulled out of the Bonanza Creek Ranch and northern New Mexico in the summer of 1988.
Built as part of the "Silverado" ranch set, the barn that later became a part of Clara's spread proved to be the most durable part of the set. Here it is in its first incarnation, in "Silverado."
Replace the cattle with horses, put up a new corral fence, sprinkle in a few chickens and add a couple of cheerful youngsters to the landscape, and the barn was ready for prime time in "Lonesome Dove."
In the years following "Lonesome Dove," a large Western town grew up around the barn, which remains a part of the Bonanza Creek Ranch filming operation today. These days the old barn is typically set up as a mercantile.
About 20 miles southwest of Clara's ranch, the town of Silverado, built four years earlier at Cerro Pelon, was still the most fully developed Western movie town in the region at the time "Lonesome Dove" was filming.
The producers of "Lonesome Dove" took over Silverado, expanding the set and using it to represent four different towns in the miniseries. The "Lonesome Dove" sets would remain in place after the production wrapped.
The old "Silverado" and "Lonesome Dove" sets have been reconfigured countless times over the past three decades — often getting bigger — but the town remains in place today and still attracts film crews.
To give you an idea of the scale of the Cerro Pelon Ranch movie town, here's what it looks like in a recent satellite shot. You might notice what appears to be a number of movie trucks parked around the exterior of the town.
Here's a look at the Cerro Pelon town set in the summer of 2014, when they were filming the Western "In a Valley of Violence," released two years later. The church on the left looks as though it might be the same one from "Silverado," which can be seen in a couple of the photos above.
The producers of "Lonesome Dove" took over Silverado, expanding the set and using it to represent four different towns in the miniseries. The "Lonesome Dove" sets would remain in place after the production wrapped.
The old "Silverado" and "Lonesome Dove" sets have been reconfigured countless times over the past three decades — often getting bigger — but the town remains in place today and still attracts film crews.
To give you an idea of the scale of the Cerro Pelon Ranch movie town, here's what it looks like in a recent satellite shot. You might notice what appears to be a number of movie trucks parked around the exterior of the town.
Here's a look at the Cerro Pelon town set in the summer of 2014, when they were filming the Western "In a Valley of Violence," released two years later. The church on the left looks as though it might be the same one from "Silverado," which can be seen in a couple of the photos above.
A glance at Cerro Pelon's Western town as it appears in the "3:10 to Yuma" remake reveals the relatively large scale of some of the buildings in the town's interior.
Similar
to Bonanza Creek Ranch with its nearby Cerro Bonanza, the Cerro Pelon
Ranch has hills nearby that can help identify the location. The hills seen here are situated southwest of the movie ranch.
Taking a look at the same shot as it appears in more detail in Part 4 of the miniseries, we can see those hills to the southwest more clearly, and we can begin to match them up with known features in the region.
Placer
Mountain and its neighbors turn up repeatedly in Westerns filmed on the
Cerro Pelon Ranch. Going all the way back to "The Man From Laramie,"
it's easy to spot the same group of hills in the
background.
You
may have made them out already, but the hills highlighted above in the
shot from "Lonesome Dove" are the same ones noted here. The angle is about the same, so we know we're again on the Cerro Pelon Ranch.
The same hills are seen covered in snow in "Silverado."
The full span of the hills clustered around Placer Mountain is featured in this wide shot from "Hostiles," again
taken on the Cerro Pelon Ranch. Placer
Mountain is the tall peak near the center of the shot.
This unusual ultra-wide shot of the Galisteo Basin from the "True Grit" remake captures both the Placer Mountain group and another of the region''s most important features — the one that gives the Cerro Pelon Ranch its name.
Cerro
Pelon, located about 10 miles east of Placer Mountain and about five
miles southwest of the Cerro Pelon Ranch, is another frequently filmed
feature that can be useful in pinpointing filming locations.
Known
locally as the "Galisteo Wave," Cerro Pelon displays various profiles depending on the angle from which it's being
photographed. This photo shows one of the classic tourist angles, but not the most common movie angle.
Cerro Pelon has been showing up in movies and TV productions for decades. Fifteen years after he helped pave the road from Hollywood to northern New Mexico with "The Man From Laramie," Jimmy Stewart found his way back for "The Cheyenne Social Club" — bringing along Henry Fonda this time.
"Silverado"
had its share of Cerro Pelon sightings too. Like many of these shots of
Cerro Pelon, this one is taken from the Cerro Pelon Ranch. In case you're curious, the Spanish term "Cerro Pelon" translates to "Bald Hill."
The miniseries "Into the West" also captured Cerro Pelon, seen here in the background on the left. Producers reportedly brought rolling stock to the Cerro Pelon Ranch and put in 2,000 feet of track for the railroad sequences.
One of the weirdest places Cerro Pelon has appeared on the screen is in this sequence from the Will Smith movie "Wild Wild West." Unrelated to the spider sequence, an explosion while the movie was filming on the Cerro Pelon Ranch in 1998 reportedly destroyed part of the town set, which the producers had to rebuild.
Another of northern New Mexico's defining features is Shiprock, located 170 miles northwest of Santa Fe in the Navajo Volcanic Field — about a 40-minute drive from Four Corners.
Shiprock is important enough to New Mexico that it was featured on a stamp issued in 1962 commemorating 50 years of statehood. I do remember 4-cent stamps, and I'm trying not to think about how long ago that was.
The rock has also caught the eye of filmmakers — including Gore Verbinski, when he directed his disastrous 2013 reimagining of "The Lone Ranger." If you're like most "Lone Ranger" fans, including me, you probably hated the Johnny Depp-Armie Hammer version. But it does have some nice photography of the American West, including plenty of New Mexico.
This shot from "The Lone Ranger" offers a wider view of the Shiprock region. There's not all that much around there, other than Shiprock itself, but the background varies depending on which direction you're looking.
Other shots from "The Lone Ranger" emphasize the volcanic formations near the main rock. Also, if you look closely you can probably find the Lone Ranger and Tonto in there somewhere.
Soon after "The Lone Ranger" was released, Shiprock turned up again in Seth MacFarlane's gross-out Western comedy "A Million Ways to Die in the West." But this time around the rock was a mirror image of itself.
In other words, this is how it should have looked, and how it was shot. Presumably, they needed footage of the chase going from left to right rather than the other way around. I would have hoped they'd shoot it the right way in the first place, but it happens. Shot flipping has been going on almost as long as there have been movies.
I did check to make sure it's not just the other side of the rock, and it's not. This is what the rock looks like from the other side, and even though the profile is similar, the nooks and crannies are all different.
It's not a Western, but Shiprock also found its way into the background of Oliver Stone's "Natural Born Killers," set largely in the Four Corners area. I assume the tornado was added in post.
Viewed from pretty much any direction, there's no denying that Shiprock is one handsome rock.
Speaking of handsome rock formations, another one in northern New Mexico that has become a favorite of Western filmmakers is Plaza Blanca, about an hour northwest of Santa Fe, off Highway 84.
It's here among the bleached stone spires that Red Harvest, played by Martin Sensmeier, has a somewhat startling rendezvous with the rest of "The Magnificent Seven" in the 2016 remake.
The miniseries "Into the West" also captured Cerro Pelon, seen here in the background on the left. Producers reportedly brought rolling stock to the Cerro Pelon Ranch and put in 2,000 feet of track for the railroad sequences.
One of the weirdest places Cerro Pelon has appeared on the screen is in this sequence from the Will Smith movie "Wild Wild West." Unrelated to the spider sequence, an explosion while the movie was filming on the Cerro Pelon Ranch in 1998 reportedly destroyed part of the town set, which the producers had to rebuild.
Another of northern New Mexico's defining features is Shiprock, located 170 miles northwest of Santa Fe in the Navajo Volcanic Field — about a 40-minute drive from Four Corners.
Shiprock is important enough to New Mexico that it was featured on a stamp issued in 1962 commemorating 50 years of statehood. I do remember 4-cent stamps, and I'm trying not to think about how long ago that was.
The rock has also caught the eye of filmmakers — including Gore Verbinski, when he directed his disastrous 2013 reimagining of "The Lone Ranger."
This shot from "The Lone Ranger" offers a wider view of the Shiprock region. There's not all that much around there, other than Shiprock itself, but the background varies depending on which direction you're looking.
Other shots from "The Lone Ranger" emphasize the volcanic formations near the main rock. Also, if you look closely you can probably find the Lone Ranger and Tonto in there somewhere.
Soon after "The Lone Ranger" was released, Shiprock turned up again in Seth MacFarlane's gross-out Western comedy "A Million Ways to Die in the West." But this time around the rock was a mirror image of itself.
In other words, this is how it should have looked, and how it was shot. Presumably, they needed footage of the chase going from left to right rather than the other way around. I would have hoped they'd shoot it the right way in the first place, but it happens. Shot flipping has been going on almost as long as there have been movies.
I did check to make sure it's not just the other side of the rock, and it's not. This is what the rock looks like from the other side, and even though the profile is similar, the nooks and crannies are all different.
It's not a Western, but Shiprock also found its way into the background of Oliver Stone's "Natural Born Killers," set largely in the Four Corners area. I assume the tornado was added in post.
Viewed from pretty much any direction, there's no denying that Shiprock is one handsome rock.
Speaking of handsome rock formations, another one in northern New Mexico that has become a favorite of Western filmmakers is Plaza Blanca, about an hour northwest of Santa Fe, off Highway 84.
It's here among the bleached stone spires that Red Harvest, played by Martin Sensmeier, has a somewhat startling rendezvous with the rest of "The Magnificent Seven" in the 2016 remake.
The
formation's narrow canyons and ghostly canyon walls make it an ideal spot for a
cinematic ambush, and more than one Plaza Blanca massacre has been
splashed across the big screen over the years.
In Kevin Costner's take on "Wyatt Earp," Plaza Blanca provides the backdrop for a suspenseful — and ultimately bloody — ambush attempt.
Danger lurks behind every stone pillar, as Earp and his compadres are well aware.
It's not long before the bodies start flying around the canyon.
But the body count in "Wyatt Earp" is nothing compared with the bloodbath that took place in the canyon more than a decade earlier in one of Plaza Blanca's most memorable film sequences.
In the widely panned 1981 attempt to bring the "Lone Ranger" saga to the big screen, Plaza Blanca provided the setting for the infamous ambush of the Texas Rangers that launches the story of the Lone Ranger.
The Plaza Blanca massacre echoes the ambush depicted in the first episode of the TV series "The Lone Ranger," filmed in 1949 on the Iverson Movie Ranch and in Bronson Canyon. I broke down the locations for the TV ambush
in a previous post, which you can see by clicking here.
In
the 1981 "Lone Ranger" update, Christopher Lloyd steps into the role of
head bad guy and ambush coordinator Butch Cavendish. I still think of
him as Jim from "Taxi," even after all those "Back to the Future"
movies.
Cavendish has assembled a small army in Plaza Blanca to take down the Texas Rangers. Spoiler alert: He gets all but one of them!
Trapped in the canyon, the Rangers never stood a chance.
Whether it's in the TV show or the "Lone Ranger" movies — even the bad ones — the massacre of the Texas Rangers has to be one of the saddest episodes in the Westerns — and it stands in contrast to the relatively lightweight fare that makes up much of the "Lone Ranger" canon. I hope this stuntman got paid extra, because that jump took some cajones. Can I say that?
After the smoke cleared, Tonto showed up to clean up the mess. And it was a big mess.
After the smoke cleared, Tonto showed up to clean up the mess. And it was a big mess.
The
crummy 1981 movie starred Klinton Spilsbury as the Lone Ranger, and if you're trying
to place that name, don't bother. He never landed another film or TV
role after tanking as the Masked Man.
Fast-forward 30 years to 2011 and we're back at Plaza Blanca, for a Western and a sci-fi movie rolled into one. The canyon played an important role in Jon Favreau's "Cowboys and Aliens."
I'd say it's more of a Western than a sci-fi movie, but your mileage may vary. Ultimately there's plenty of both — plus some cool scenery.
If you didn't know it was there you might not realize there's a huge space ship hiding in the canyon.
In case you're having trouble finding it, there it is.
As the big finale plays out, and the fate of the human race hangs in the balance, we get a better look at the ship.
If you like your background hills with a little more color in them, northern New Mexico may have what you're looking for in Ghost Ranch, a few miles northwest of Plaza Blanca.
The region's scenic beauty received a lot of high-profile publicity after famed artist Georgia O'Keeffe, known as "The Mother of American Modernism," moved to Ghost Ranch and began featuring it in her paintings.
The distinctive peak known as Cerro Pedernal, situated directly across from O'Keeffe's house, was one of her personal favorites, and she painted it countless times over the course of five decades.
O'Keeffe has been quoted saying of Cerro Pedernal: "God told me if I painted it enough, I could have it."
After O'Keeffe's death in Santa Fe in 1986 at age 98, her ashes were spread on Cerro Pedernal.
The peak has also received attention from Hollywood, and turns up regularly in Westerns shot in New Mexico. It can be helpful in pinpointing productions filmed in and around Ghost Ranch.
Once you know it's there, Cerro Pedernal is hard to miss. Its name translates in English to "Flint Hill."
Filmmakers are well aware of the peak too, and have discovered ways to put it to good use.
The peak's shape is so distinctive that it can be spotted even when it's hidden deep in the background. You may be able to make it out near the top of the photo, slightly right of center.
But Cerro Pedernal does its best work when it has some breathing room.
Much of the scenery around Ghost Ranch features the prevailing shades of red and yellow in the rock formations — along with splashes of green at the right time of year.
These patterns, which appear in many contemporary Westerns, have come to be closely identified with the American West as it is depicted in the movies.
This wide shot from "Hostiles" features the same area seen in the "3:10 to Yuma" photo above. The large butte in the background of the "Hostiles" shot, on the right, is the main butte seen in the "3:10 to Yuma" photo.
Here's that same butte again, this time in "The Magnificent Seven," where it adds ambiance to a gunplay sequence taking place in a corral down below. (The guy on the left, refereeing the gunfight, is David Manzanares, who has added an informative comment in the comments section at the end of this post.)
A wider shot from the sequence reveals that the corral is part of a larger set — the movie's "Volcano Springs."
The Volcano Springs set also includes this cabin, which has appeared in a number of movies.
The cabin is still there, along with the corral. The set is located just off Highway 84 along the entrance road into Ghost Ranch, about a 15-minute drive northwest from the picturesque town of Abiquiu, N.M.
"Hostiles" is an especially good showcase for northern New Mexico and the Ghost Ranch region, because the movie is essentially one long road trip. I thought it was one of the better recent Westerns, too.
Chimney rocks are among Ghost Ranch's trademark features. I believe this one is actually called "Chimney Rock."
"Silverado" offered its own take on the Chimney Rock formation with this wide shot.
"Cowboys and Aliens" also did a nice job with its photography in the Ghost Ranch area.
And so did "The Magnificent Seven." Some of these buttes may be starting to look familiar by now.
The landscape of New Mexico is vast, and I'm a long way from figuring out where everything is. For example, when I first posted the above screen shot of a beautiful gorge seen in "Hostiles," I figured it was in New Mexico, but didn't know where. That mystery was solved in the comment below from David Manzanares. ... Happy trails.